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La Sportiva Speedster
The La Sportiva Speedster is a highly sensitive No-Edge® slipper climbing shoe designed for hard bouldering and technical sport climbing. Adam Ondra wore the La Sportiva Speedster on his first 9a onsight, which he said was thanks to the No-Edge® technology that enabled his feet to climb much faster than an ordinary shoe with a sharp edge would. Essentially, No-Edge® technology makes foot placements much more forgiving, as the increased contact-surface area and ability to pivot and roll on tiny footholds allows you to be generally less precise and move with greater speed. Hence the name, Speedster!
La Sportiva say they have designed this shoe with zero foot restriction, maximum sensitivity, and complete freedom of movement. With a 3mm thin midsole, this is probably one of the thinnest midsoled shoes on the market. Bending and flexing this shoe will be very easy indeed, increasing performance on steep climbs and also whilst toe-hooking, which the extended toe rubber will also assist with. Being unlined, there are no hinderances to sensitivity at all. No doubt you can feel every minute feature in this shoe. And, the P3® rand system has also been included by La Sportiva which maintains the shoe's aggressive shape over time to increase longevity.
The Speedster is designed for medium volume feet and is advised to be worn as snugly as possible for maximum performance. Bear in mind that the upper is suede leather combined with microfiber, so there will be some stretch in the shoe. Size appropriately.
|Upper material|| |
|Inner material|| |
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
Lime / Yellow
0.31 kg (Size 40 EU)
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip 2
|Sole thickness|| |
No-Edge® Technology is especially effective on featureless rock and for smearing. It decreases space between the toe and the shoe’s rubber to enhance sensitivity, allowing you to “feel” tiny holds with greater precision, and its edgeless design creates a greater contact surface area with the rock - i.e., you don’t just the rubber under your toes, but the entire toe-box. No-Edge® technology is ideal for steep bouldering, technical climbing, and hold-less feature climbing, where it instills maximum confidence on holds you wouldn’t even notice were there in a standard climbing shoe.
P3® Permanent Power Platform
After intensive abuse, downturned climbing shoes can start to lose their distinctive shape. La Sportiva’s P3 rand system prevents from this happening so your shoe maintains its powerful profile, permanently.
Vibram XS Grip 2
The natural evolution of a winning compound, XS Grip 2 rubber improves upon the superior grip characteristics of XS Grip and delivers outstanding precision in the form of support, shape and stability. It provides exceptional grip in every condition and was developed especially for climbing shoes by Vibram.
10 product reviews
These are the first pair of no-edge shoes I've owned. Honestly I was skeptical and thought it was a gimmick but I now have to admit I was wrong, I'm very impressed with these shoes.
I have three pair, size 37, 36.5 and 36. The 37's are very comfortable with my toes still fairly curved at the front and the smallest amount of dead space in the heal. These are my training shoes. The smaller ones are for high effort sends. And yes, I'm hoarding them because they're discontinued.
For size reference I wear a street shoe size of 40-41 depending on brand. My performance fit Scarpa instinct VS are size 38. I could maybe go a half size lower in them but it'd be tough. In 5.10 Anasazi's (Blanco, Pink and VCS) I'm a comfortable but still tight size 39.5 (US 7) with performance size 39 (US 6.5).
Observations about the shoes:
1. The no-edge stuff is legit. The sticky rubber plus the extra surface area means I can just put my foot wherever and get a decently secure hold. This really comes into play outside where foot holds aren't obvious and precise footwork really matters.
2. Despite their highly aggressive downturn they can still smear very well because of how soft they are and how sticky the Grip2 rubber is.
3. Despite being really soft they still edge well because of their downturn and the no-edge design allowing your toe to be as close as possible to the rock and therefore get more force and strength onto the hold.
4. I have a very wide foot. Even my Scarpa instinct VS's, which are always recommended for wide feet, are sometimes to tight for me to squeeze into and I have to use plastic bags. The speedster fits soooo well on me. Because of how accommodating they are to my wide feet I can downsize them like crazy, which is what you need to do to really reap the performance benefits the shoe offers. Even being 5 EU sizes down from my street shoes I still find them almost, comfortable to wear... almost.
Overall I love these shoes and would do almost anything for La Sportiva to put them back into production.
A great little shoe, once they are worn in they are brilliant for smearing, the heel is reasonable for heel hooking. A great all-round shoe.
The small step is very stable, the shoes are very fast and comfortable, but the elastic band seems to be a little elastic and tired soon, the recommended size of the website is accurate.
After years of climbing in solutions, I thought i'd branch out. They've got a very similar shape to solutions, snug heal which stays on well despite being a slipper and surprisingly comfy within 3-4 indoor sessions. Hoping they'll be good Font shoes due to how soft they are. Very pleased so far.
This is my third pair of these over the course of about 5 years. Great for everything inside. Once you get used to no edge technology it's very effective. They were really good in magic wood a few years ago. Really, really good on anything that involves smearing. The only downside is that I struggle to get them into pockets. They also also seem last forever, my last pair only had to be retried because I caught my heel on a sharp edge and that damaged the rand.